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Geelong
Large industrial city which is much more attractive and interesting than first impressions.
Geelong, situated on Corio Bay (an arm of Port Phillip Bay), is the state's most sizeable provincial city. In 1993 urban sprawl forced the de facto recognition that Geelong, Geelong West, Newtown, South Barwon, Bellarine and the shire of Corio were effectively a continuous whole and they were amalgamated to form the City of Greater Geelong which, in 1996, had a population of 175 409.

Regardless of Geelong's industrial reputation the CBD is quite elegant and beautiful owing to the Victorian public architecture, the floral gardens and parklands, the festive seaside qualities created by Corio Bay's presence, the beauty of Eastern Park and the Botanical Gardens on the headland overlooking the bay, and the thoughtful presentation of the promenade at Eastern Beach. The CBD is 73 km south-west of Melbourne's city centre.

Geelong has always been a major port and has always had a symbiotic relationship with the fertile agricultural and pastoral districts to the west and north-west of the city - a relationship which is manifest in the form of huge bay-side grain silos. The city's heavy industry is mostly situated on the flat land beside the bay to the north of the CBD. Geelong also has a reputation as an educational and commercial centre.

For about 25 000 years prior to European settlement the area was occupied by the Wathawurung people. The first Europeans to visit Port Phillip Bay were the party of Lieutenant John Murray in 1802. Later that same year, Matthew Flinders explored the bay more closely. He rowed across Corio Bay and climbed the You Yangs. Governor King sent a surveyor who mapped Port Phillip though it is unlikely he set foot on what is now Geelong.

A short-lived attempt to establish a colony on the Mornington Peninsula ensued in 1803-04. Lieutenant Tuckey ventured out from this settlement and was probably the first European to investigate the future townsite. One of the convicts from the settlement, named William Buckley, escaped and was adopted by a local Aboriginal tribe with whom he lived for 32 years.

In 1824 Hamilton Hume and William Hovell travelled overland to the western shore of the bay which the Wathawurung called 'Jillong' (they called the land 'Corayo').

In 1835 John Batman inspected the area. He was acting on behalf of the Port Phillip Association who were looking for new pasturage as Van Dieman's Land (i.e., Tasmania) was quickly being swallowed up. In the process he encountered the long lost Buckley who became an interpreter and guide for the Association. An account of his 'life and adventures' was published in 1852.

Batman signed the Geelong Deed with eight Aboriginal leaders. This 'agreement' ceded 500 000 acres of land around Melbourne and 100 000 acres around the future Geelong (including the entire Bellarine peninsula) to the Association, in exchange for a down payment and a yearly tribute of blankets, knives, tomahawks, looking glasses, scissors, clothing and flour. Governor Bourke declared the 'agreement' illegal but proved helpless to stop a flood of large sheep stations which were taken up in 1836 by the likes of Dr Alexander Thomson, John Cowie and David Stead. A wool store was opened that same year on the townsite.

In 1837 Governor Bourke visited the new settlement which he had surveyed. It became the site of only the second police station of the Port Phillip district when Foster Fyans was appointed as police magistrate and protector of Aborigines. Geelong's first house of any substance was built that same year.

Cowie and Stead erected a lookout on what is now Bell Post Hill in order that incoming ships be quickly spotted; the reason being that goods from Van Dieman's Land had to be left at Point Henry as a sandbar prevented the entry of large vessels into the bay. A bell was also set up on the hill to alert settlers in case of Aboriginal attack and it is probable that this same bell is the one now in use at Morongo Girls' College on the same site.

In 1838 Geelong was proclaimed a town. Two stores, the Woolpack Inn and a customs station were opened. The latter is now Victoria's oldest building still standing. Land sales commenced in 1839. The Geelong Advertiser, established as a weekly in 1840, was the first newspaper outside of Melbourne in the Port Phillip district. It is now the state's oldest morning paper.

By the end of 1841, when the population was 454, a post office, two watch-houses and a clerk of works' office had been established. A Presbyterian church was built from 1841-42 with the other denominations following suit in the 1840s. Christ Church (Anglican), designed by Edmund Blacket and built from 1843 to 1847, is the state's oldest church in continuous use. All denominations set up schools at Geelong in the 1840s. A mechanics' institute was built in 1847 and a savings bank opened in 1848. For entertainment, regular horse races were held from 1843, sea baths were established in 1844, regattas were held from 1844 and a theatre was built in 1847.

From the outset of settlement at Port Phillip, there had been an intense sense of rivalry between Melburnians and residents of Geelong; each regarding their town as the new district's rightful capital. Although Melbourne was chosen as an administrative centre Geelong initially laid claim to being the commercial centre: and not without reason: by 1848 Geelong's exports exceeded those of Melbourne. This was despite the sandbar, which prevented entry to the inner bay, and despite the absence of local customs facilities, which meant that all ships had to take a detour to Williamstown. In the 1840s 90% of local exports consisted of wool, with tallow, live sheep, sheepskins and salted mutton making up most of the balance.