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Cessnock (including Bellbird, Nulkaba, Ellalong, Paxton and Millfield)
Mining town in the Hunter Valley
151 km north of Sydney via the freeway Cessnock, together with Bellbird, has a population of 17 914 and is situated 107 metres above sea-level. Although originally a service centre to travellers and the surrounding farms its real development as a town occurred when the area became a major mining centre at the turn of the century. Consequently there is little in the way of heritage buildings and today Cessnock is essentially a rather unattractive and uninteresting residential, commercial and government centre, although it is situated adjacent one of the state's most important wine-growing centres.

Depending on which source is consulted it is variously believed that the original inhabitants of the area were the Darkinjang, Awabakal or Wanaruah peoples.

Many early landholders in the Hunter Valley were of Scottish descent. Some were the younger sons of noble families who had come to take advantage of generous grants when the family estate was bestowed upon the eldest son. One such case was that of John Campbell who was granted 1560 acres in 1826 along Black Creek where the town is now situated. He named the property after Cessnock castle in Ayrshire, Scotland, which belonged to his baronial grandfather. Unfortunately John died in 1828 at the age of 24 and his younger brother David returned to Scotland when the grant was transferred to elder brother George, still resident in his native land. George waived his rights in 1832 and David finally managed to secure a deed in 1834. However, by that time, he too had decided to remain in Scotland and he became an absentee landlord. Much of the property was sold in an 1853 enabling the emergence of a private village.

The locality was situated at an intersection on the Great North Road. The first road to join Sydney with the Hunter Valley it was built by 3000 convicts between 1826 and 1834. The junction became a camping place for teamsters. The Cessnock Inn was established here in 1856 for those travelling between Wollombi and Maitland. By 1858 there were still no more than eleven adults.

After the Robertson Land Act of 1861 the way was opened for small landholders and people began to settle on small farms along Black Creek and Anvil Creek in the area to the north and north-west of Cessnock. They were mostly wheat-growers but a German winemaker named Bouffier established a vineyard at Cessnock around 1866. The township developed as a service centre to local farmers and travellers. Wheat-growing declined after rust destroyed the crop in 1870.

With a view to establishing a village in the area, land had been reserved for a church and school north of present-day Cessnock as early as 1829. St Luke's Anglican Church was finally built there in 1867, the original slab-construction St Patrick's Catholic Church in 1872 and a school in 1877. A village was laid out there in 1884-85. Officially described as 'The Village of Pokolbin' it became known as Cessnock later in the decade. That name was transferred south to the town now called Cessnock in 1908 and the northern village became known by its local name, Nulkaba, which was officially adopted in 1927. By that time the farmland to the west had become known as Pokolbin.

Coal was discovered by William Keene in 1856 but the full potential of the Greta coal seam was not recognised until 1886 when T.W. Edgeworth David did some exploratory work. The first colliery (Richmond Vale) was opened in 1891 and was linked by rail with Maitland. Closed in 1967 it is now a mining museum. The East Greta, Stanford Merthyr, Pelaw Main, Abermain, Aberdare and Hebburn collieries were all in operation by 1906 (the names recalling the mining areas of Wales and Northern England). Aberdare (opened in 1905) was the first mine at what is now known as Cessnock.

The local mining operations were very large, even by world standards. 17 collieries existed on the South Maitland Coal Field, employing nearly 10 000 men and boys and thus supporting a population of 43 000 in the district.

As a result of the collieries a land boom occurred between the turn of the century and the early 1920s. Subsequently the population, which had increased from 62 in 1871 to 165 in 1901, was 12 000 by 1926 when Cessnock became a municipality. Coalmining was supplemented by wine-making, timber, pottery, dairying and cattle.

Conditions at the mines were poor. The unionised workforce pressed for central rescue stations in the mines but their pleas were ignored. Some did not even have safety lamps. Then, on September 1, 1923, 20 men and their horses were killed in an underground explosion and fire at Bellbird Colliery. One of the rescuers, John Brown, the manager at Aberdare, also died.

Unrest continued throughout the 1920s. In 1929 Norman Brown was shot and killed at Rothbury when police fired their pistols to warn off thousands of miners protesting against scab labour during a lock-out. A monument to what has become known as the Rothbury Riots is located at North Rothbury.

Many mines closed during the Great Depression of the 1930s. They reopened during World War II which were profitable years for the mine-owners although unrest continued over pay and conditions. Striking employees were visited by novelist Katherine Susannah Prichard in 1944. The methods employed by the owners to accelerate extraction rendered vast amounts of coal inaccessible. The pits began to close from the late 1950s and wine slowly supplanted coal as the centrepiece of the local economy.

The City of Cessnock was declared in 1957 and the Greater City of Cessnock in 1984. The latter incorporates 25 formerly separate towns and mining villages which mostly developed around a particular colliery.

The Budburst Festival is held in September with a parade, markets, events and the Miss Cessnock quest.

 


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